Capital of Kai at Wellington Museum

The exhibition features establishments old and new – some of which are still thriving and others that shut down many years ago but still made a pivotal mark on the food scene in Pōneke.

Wheako Pōneke Experience Wellington Senior Curator Social History Ian Wards, curator of the exhibition, says ‘In Capital of Kai I wanted to show how the food in the cafes and restaurants of Wellington has changed over the last hundred years. It shows how we went from fairly monotonous British cuisine to the diverse world of flavours we have today. I also wanted to acknowledge the hard work of generations of food creatives who have truly made Wellington the Capital of Kai.’

Several cafes are featured, including The Green Parrot Cafe, which opened in 1926. The interpretation explains that its menu was ‘established by “Big” Tony Marinovich in the early 1930s’ and ‘has remained largely unchanged to this day’, where it still operates on Taranaki Street.

The exhibition foregrounds Fagg’s Coffee, French Maid Coffee House, Rosanna Lounge, No. 9, Deluxe, and Suzy’s Coffee Lounge, among others.

French Maid Coffee House was established by Arthur Singleton on Lambton Quay in 1940 and was arguably one of Aotearoa New Zealand’s first modern cafes – exhibiting local art and fostering rich conversation – until its building was demolished in 1951.

Rosanna Lounge was owned by Greek émigré Dennis Boulieris from 1958-75 and situated on Willis Street.

No. 9, which operated from 1978-82, focused on ‘freshly made, wholesome food ... with queues out the door most days’. It sold coffee for 50c a cup, and chocolate ribbon cake for only 90c a slice – an ideal morning tea at a total cost of only $1.40.

The exhibition features a useful print of ‘A Coffee Guide to Wellington’, which was a promotional tea towel from the mid-1960s. The tea towel lists the name (in alphabetical order), address, telephone number, and specialty of each establishment – with such specialties listed as ‘soups + salads’; ‘coffee, tea, tv’; ‘folk song centre’; ‘sea food savouries’; and ‘where friends meet’.

'A Coffee Guide to Wellington' – a promotional tea towel from the mid-1960s

I would certainly purchase an equivalent modern-day tea towel – there’s a gap in the market!

In addition to cafes, the exhibition highlights restaurants, delis, butchers, and more. We learn about Il Casino, which opened in Wellington in the 1970s after Remiro Bresolin arrived in the city from Italy. The interpretation reads, ‘He introduced pizza and other exotic dishes like spaghetti and calamari to enthusiastic Wellingtonians. With hard work and flamboyance, he made his restaurant Il Casino on Tory Street the place to be.’

Il Casino, The Lotus and The Shanghai are showcased in the exhibition

From the mid-1970s to the 1990s, Dixon Street Deli distributed imported, high-end delicacies. They introduced ‘the first bagels, artisan breads, fresh pasta and gelato’ as well as being known for their rotisserie chickens. One of their striking green and white striped aprons features in the exhibit.

Displays highlighting Dixon Street Deli, The Matterhorn and Great India

Alongside Dixon Street Deli we have The Matterhorn, a Swiss-themed cafe on Cuba Street that opened in 1962. Also depicted in the above image is an homage to Great India; the interpretation explains how Champaklal ‘Charli’ Tailor worked as a cook at Wellington’s first Indian restaurant, Bengal Tiger, before opening Great India with his family in 1983. Great India has now been operating in central Pōneke for over 30 years.

The exhibition features Sweet Mother’s Kitchen, established on Courtenay Place in 2006, specialising in ‘Cajun-style food and friendly hospitality’. Curly fries were a favourite at this establishment when it opened, and they remain delicious today.

An early two-page menu for Sweet Mother’s Kitchen in English (left) and te reo Māori (right)

Some of the other restaurants featured include Nikau, Rice Bowl Burger Bar, Little Penang, and Hiakai.

Rice Bowl Burger Bar operated in Newtown for 16 years, only closing in February this year. The owners Wawa Shen and her husband Qing ran the business seven days a week, with 11-hour shifts on weekends, and raised their family from their home on the premises.

Nikau was known for its legendary kedgeree, with the fish for the dish being smoked on-site with mānuka. After several requests for the recipe, owners Kelda Hains and Paul Schrader worked with designer Sarah Maxey to produce a tea towel revealing their secret – which is on display at the Capital of Kai exhibit.

Regarding Hiakai, the interpretation reads: ‘Monique Fiso (Ngā Rauru, Ngāti Ruanui, Samoa) grew up in Porirua and started in kitchens at 14. After cooking school and a stint at Bosley’s, she headed to New York to hone her skills. Returning to Aotearoa in 2016, she started Hiakai as an exploration of kai Māori and kai Pasifika. In te reo Māori, hiakai means a desire, need or a craving for food ... [The restaurant] was fully booked from the day it opened until its final service in 2024.’

At Capital of Kai, there are interactive opportunities for tamariki (and adults!) to ‘pile a plate with dining memories’ by drawing with colouring pencils their own favourite meals and food experiences.

'Pile a plate with dining memories' interactive exhibit

There is also a chance to ‘make a meal of it!’ by tracing outlines of delicious food with colouring pencils.

'Make a meal of it!' interactive exhibit

If you haven’t already checked out Capital of Kai at Te Waka Huia o Ngā Taonga Tuku Iho / Wellington Museum, we would highly recommend doing so – you will learn a lot about the history of hospitality in Pōneke in a fun and engaging way. Get in quick before it closes on 6 September!